I’ve always had a dream to visit Peru and go to Machu Picchu, but never could I have imagined wanting to leave the country as fast as I could, and just come home. At the beginning of our trip we did have a wonderful time with our tour guide, Richard, visiting the Morey Archaeological Site, Maras Salt Mines, Ollantaytambo Ruins and town, Aguas Calientes, the Inca Trail, and yes, Machu Picchu (thank goodness). I will be posting pictures from all of those places in my next post, but for this current post I will explain what happened the second half of our trip when all site-seeing tours were canceled due to political unrest.

A little background information: on December 7th Peru’s president, Pedro Castillo, attempted to dissolve Congress and install a new government that would rule by decree, this action fell outside the limits placed on the president by the constitution. The move was widely condemned, a coup ensued, and Castillo was arrested on charges of rebellion. His vice president, Dina Boluarte, a former ally, soon took office. Brad was aware of the situation but assumed it would not impact our trip so he didn’t mention it to our group in hopes to not provoke any unnecessary anxiety before we left for Peru. 

We arrived in Cusco on the 10th and were picked up by our tour guide and taken to Ollantaytambo where we spent two days site-seeing in the area without any issues. On Monday, December 12th, we left on the Peru Rail KM 104 to hike the one-day Inca Trail route to Machu Picchu. We had been instructed to pack clothes and supplies for 24 hours as we would spend the night in Aguas Calientes, and eventually be reunited with our luggage in Cusco the following day.

After a wonderful but strenuous hike on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, we enjoyed hot showers and dinner in Aguas Calientes. The next morning our tour guide informed us that due to political protests throughout the country, the railways had ceased operations and we would not be able to return to Cusco that afternoon as scheduled. Since our group had only packed for one day, there was immediate concern about clothes, medications and other supplies. Ali and I voiced that we would be willing to hike to Ollantaytambo but we were informed that the situation was too dangerous.

We continued our morning visit to Machu Picchu and returned to our hotel in Aguas Calientes that afternoon. Our trip quickly turned into the movie Groundhog Day, being stranded in a small town with few activities, plus the never-ending pull to be reunited with our luggage. Each day we registered on various government evacuation lists, first on paper and then digitally. We also heard numerous rumors, the latest being evacuation by helicopter. On Wednesday, December 15th, our guide recommended that we continue to shelter in place, however, if we really wanted to leave, we could sign liability waivers and hike to Ollantaytambo where the tour company would arrange for motorcycles (that could go around barricades erected by protesters) to drive us back to Cusco. I was all for it, just to get out, but it did sound a little too sketchy! 

On Thursday afternoon, December 16th, our guide gathered us together once  again to discuss our options. Our little town, Aguas Calientes, located at the base of Machu Picchu, was completely shut off from the rest of the world since the only way in or out was by railroad (the only cars in town were maintenance vehicles and garbage trucks). Even though we felt relatively safe due to the increase in security, the town was quickly running out of food and water, especially since there were over 800 tourist stranded there. So it was decided that we would hike 20 miles to Ollantaytambo (which would take approximately 8 hours) and then hopefully a bus would be waiting to take us to Cusco if it could somehow get around all the barricades.

We now had two choices, we could either leave immediately and hike the last couple of hours in the dark, or have a good dinner, rest-up, and leave the the next morning at 4:30am. Our group wisely chose the latter (thanks Josie). We immediately sprang into action withdrawing cash from the ATM, purchasing supplies for the hike (flashlights, ponchos, hats, hiking snacks, etc.), eating a good dinner, and going to bed early so that we would be well-rested for the long trek out. 

On Friday, December 17th at 4:30am, we met in the lobby of our hotel and prayed to have a safe passage and tempered weather (it was after all the rainy season in Peru). We departed in pure darkness and began our walk at KM 82, on the railroad tracks.

The most difficult part of the of hike was trying to navigate the sharp rocks on the rail bed, they really made our feet sore, and caused us to constantly twist our ankles. We could only image how the rocks felt on many of the local’s feet who had worn-out shoes or sandals. We also saw people carrying their small children on their shoulders or babies in their arms, and older women who were hiking in dress clothes and shoes. We overheard other tourist say that they couldn’t carry all of their luggage so they just left it on the side of the tracks. It really put things in perspective for us.

At one point we took a small trail parallel to the tracks that winded through cacti and farmland, even though it added a little time to our journey, the sandy trail among the pigs and cattle was such a nice respite for our aching feet. 

It was also difficult for us ladies to find secluded places for bathroom use. We kept going at a quick steady pace, and other than bathroom stops, we rested only once to eat lunch, always trying to stay ahead of the main group of tourists. We celebrated each kilometer completed and after 7.5 hours we finally made it to KM 82, where supposedly buses would be picking up tourists and evacuating them. We were so happy for the possibility of a rescue and to sit down and rest, eat our snacks, use real bathrooms, and have cell service to let everyone know we safely completed the hike.

After waiting for over an hour, we became quite chilled, the fatigue set in, and we began to doubt if the promised buses were really going to happen, or if they were just another rumor. I grew very impatient and wanted to continue walking into Ollantaytambo rather than just sitting there and shivering, waiting for something that might not happen (yes, I have no faith). We suddenly heard a big commotion as a group of protesters came into our area and began shouting at the locals (little old ladies), attacking and vandalizing the impromptu stands of food and water they set up to sell to the stranded tourists. They quickly packed-up shop and ran and hid as us tourist yelled and booed the protesters who moved onto the railroad tracks to intimidate and harass the tourists finishing their long hike. The protestor also placed large rocks in the street to try and prevent the buses from making it to our location. Many of Castillo’s supporters were from poor, rural regions, but were able to shut down transportation by blocking railways and highways with large rocks, bricks, burning tires, trees, etc. They even removed parts of the railroad tracks which we noticed as we were hiking out.

Finally the buses arrived escorted by police cars and flashing lights, everyone cheered and I was never so happy to see the police in all my life. Bottles of water and snacks were handed to us as we boarded the buses. The buses were quickly filled, and then over-filled, with people standing in the isles and sitting in the front on the floor. The police even loaded people into the back of their trucks in order to get everyone out safely.  

We were excited when the buses stared moving, and overjoyed when we found out we were being transported directly to Cusco rather than Ollantaytambo. We soon came to the realization how serious and dangerous the protest had been as we passed numerous blockades. The convoy stopped several times in order for the police to remove debris and obstacles off the road and check the all vehicles for flat tires. At one point we came to a human blockade of protesters trying to prevent the buses from passing, while the police were negotiating for our safe passage, protestors tried to intimidate the bus drivers and enter the buses. Eventually, the convoy had to drive the back roads (many not meant for large buses) in order to avoid the protesters and blockades.

After approximately two hours of driving, we arrived in the main square of Cusco, and exited the buses. There was a large security presence at the square so we felt very safe as we waited for our tour-company van (with our luggage!) to pick us up and drop us off at our Airbnb. Up to this point all airports had been closed due to protest activities. Our flights out of Cusco were rescheduled for Sunday evening, and we all crossed our fingers that we would be able to fly to Lima and catch our connecting flights out of the country. The airports opened and we made it to the Lima airport Sunday evening. We decided to stay in the Lima airport overnight for convenience and safety, and then we all flew out Monday morning, mentally and physically exhausted.